A study of weights packed at the Heritage roasting
plants has revealed the happy news that bag weights have been rising over
the past twelve months. The numbers relating to our coffee service
customers indicate that weights of 1.75 ounces and higher have risen by 6.6%.
That, of course, could be partly due to thermal servers with their higher
liquid capacity, but there is evidence that at least some of it is because of
demand for better strength.
We have been harping about declining coffee weights over
the past 30 years or so, as witnessed by several pieces published in the
various trade media and talks at coffee conventions. Coffee was one of the
only beverages that got watered down whenever the prices rose. Coffee sitting
in glass bowls on warming plates contributed to the problem. Lower weights led
to lower grade coffee as high quality, sweet, soft cupping coffees become too
bland when watered down—whereas rough, low grade coffees at least have some
character, suggesting one is drinking something called coffee.
Now with thermal carafes and people getting used to
stronger coffee in specialty houses, a renaissance in good coffee is happening
in the workplace also. Two things are important to watch for, however. One is
over-roasting (the “Charbuckian Syndrome”). Dark roasts can be necessary
in espresso based drinks such as lattes and cappuccinos, because among the
other ingredients of milk, sugar, chocolate and heaven only knows what else,
coffee tends to be overpowered by those stronger elements. By roasting coffee
to the degree that gives it a charcoal-like, “post-toasties” taste, coffee
is able to hold its own against those stronger flavours. But straight coffee
doesn’t require it for optimum taste satisfaction.
The other important thing to remember is that coffees
generally are being ground too fine for optimum extraction with higher weights
in today’s coffee brewers. This is the result of lower weights causing
operators to demand fine grinds for maximum extraction. But with higher
weights causing deeper filter beds that inhibit easy flow through the filter,
overflowing baskets and over extracted coffee can be the result — messy on
the one hand, a bitter beverage on the other.
Roasted, ground and served as coffee should be, as close as
possible to the specs established by the SCAA for brew strength, high grade
coffee will cause all other beverages to scream for mercy. If I may be allowed
a bit of facetiousness, tea will again be for sick people, soda pop for kids,
booze for those who like to booze, and coffee will have regained its place as
beverage of choice for grown up, healthy adults.
As Heritage has been the most consistent advocate of better weights, we
unilaterally declare ourselves The Heavyweight Coffee Champions of the New
Millennium. Long live high grade coffee — the wonder drink!
Heritage Coffee Companies: