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2003 To Dream the Impossible Dream© 2003 Brian Martell What is the best coffee? While this question is often asked, the answer is not so forthcoming. “Best” implies some form of quantifiable measure that falls into the realm of the objective. The issue with coffee is that its main distinguishable qualities (body, taste, aroma and acidity) are more congruent with the subjective. Alas, those of us in the business can spend an entire career looking for the Holy Grail of coffee — that special blend that everyone raves about, that is always fresh and that is competitively priced with margin to spare. The reason why roasters, OCS, vending and foodservice operators turn up empty-handed on this crusade is that they may have already found the coffee in question; they just don’t know it. Consider the variables that go into blending, roasting and grinding coffee, and then compound the permutations by the myriad ways of brewing and holding coffee and you’ll begin to see that the Grail of coffee so often sought after can be difficult to maintain once achieved. Thus the main challenge of operators is more to keep the Grail once discovered than it is to find it. Coffee, as consumers consider it, is a hot liquid that gets them started in the morning, and keeps them going during the day. They are more demanding on what a good cup of coffee tastes like and have been responsible for spawning a whole new industry of upscale coffee shops à la Second Cup, Starbucks et al. That the market for better quality coffees is more vibrant than for the institutional varieties bodes well for operators who look to improve their positioning. They are already on the right road to finding that elusive Chalice. Part of the puzzle involves the systems and methodology used in transforming the green into roasted coffee. Like wine, coffee crops change from year to year; so maintaining strict blend recipes can lead to wild fluctuations in tastes, even from season to season. Consistency is key from the roaster’s standpoint in fulfilling the role of maintaining unwavering coffee profiles. Therefore good roasters will select coffees for blending based more on the four attributes mentioned above than on provenance. The prudent and quality roaster will also pay close attention to other factors that can affect the taste profile. Factors such as moisture levels, internal packaging environment as well as testing for foreign compounds alien to coffee’s complex makeup, to name but a few. While this is important, it is not the final chapter in the odyssey. Once an operator has found a reputable roaster, he still must contend with the final aspect of the cycle. Coffee brewing is the last step in the transformation from fruit to cup (yes, coffee is a fruit). Establishing good brewing protocols, cleanliness and setting parameters for how long the coffee should be held are all important in consistently delivering a good cup of coffee to the consumer. If you are in the foodservice part of the coffee business (which includes OCS and Vending), then it must be recognized that you are also in the manufacturing business. Just as it is important for the large industrialists to make products to consumers’ satisfaction, operators must face the further challenge of meeting those same expectations, but with their manufacturing taking place at every client’s location! In this light, it may become more clear as to why finding the Grail is easier than keeping it. The secret lies in focusing on the service end of the business once the other, less elusive factors have been settled. Getting back to the original question of what is the “Best Coffee,” if you adhere to the principles above noted (and those that make up the Continuum to Contentment), you should be able to proudly say, “Why our coffee of course!” Questions or comments? Reach Brian at Brian@heritage-coffee.com
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